As we finally approached the vicinity of the balloon field we could hear the distinctive voice of Barack Obama over a public address system at the park shelter south of the balloon field (this was the same location for the Dean rally I attended in 2003). The crowd looked to be twice the size of the rally from four years ago - I estimate their number to be be close to a thousand. And the signs - large "Hope" signs everywhere at the rally site. Apparently the Obama campaign had also arranged to bus a large number of people into the rally and the site of the steak fry. One of our number who left our vehicle in the traffic jam walked to the rally - he later told me that at the rally individuals were given t-shirts and that if one wanted, they could get tickets for admission to the steak fry from the Obama campaign.

On the drive in on Highway 92 there was a huge number of Hillary yard signs planted along the right of way. Other campaigns also had an impressive "visibility".

Once we got past the rally site we got to the parking area and the parking staff got us efficiently to a spot close to the main entrance.

Near the parking entrance to the balloon field there was a huge Edwards banner hanging from a lift.

I walked up to the press tent past several groups of campaign staffers for different campaigns acting as cheer leading squads. I waited in a short line and told the nice twenty-something staffer that I had blogger credentials. I found my name on a list - he had me initial next to it, then he handed me a red press pass on a chain.

I walked through the gate into the world of the Harkin Steak Fry

The weather was near perfect. Mostly sunny skies with temperatures in the 70s.

As I walked through the entrance gate a twenty-something asks me for my ticket, then sees the press pass, smiles and says, "Sorry," then motions me through. I'm wondering the same thing.

Down the rabbit hole.

There was an army of volunteers at the entrance from one campaign or another passing out campaign stickers (and still others working the crowd, handing out campaign paraphernalia and getting Iowans to fill out cards). They see my pass and don't offer me anything.

There's no mud. People stream in through the entrance. The food lines at the south east are humming with activity. The huge tents with tables are occupied. I see a big crowd to the north east.

Ah. The scheduled photo op.

The attendance to the event is eventually announced. 12,000. A record. That's one big mass of humanity.

I have my bag over one shoulder and may camera in hand. The damn press pass keeps twirling in the wind - the chain chokes me. I keep having to untwist it. The t-shirted campaign volunteers handing out "stuff" approach everyone - they see my pass and purposefully avoid me.

I made my way to the food line tents. I take a few photos of people in line. Surprisingly, of the close to 100 photos I took, almost all look decent. I made my way to the large crowd at the photo op. I find myself in the midst of large organized competing Hillary and Edwards groups. John Edwards is working the fence line. I see one of his national campaign staffers who I've been acquainted with over the years. I call out his name. He looks at me over the fence, sees me and smiles. I call out over the crowd, "Do you remember me?" He nods. I continue snapping away with my camera, a full size slr digital job. An event staffer, seeing my press pass tells me, "Follow me." He grabs a few others inside the crowd with press passes and takes us in tow, escorting us inside the fence to the inner sanctum of the photo-op.

The photographers and video camera people mob John Edwards. Elizabeth Edwards, too. The crowd at the fence line keeps their competing chants going. The Edwards people have more "home made" appearing signs and a guy with a bullhorn.

Jeff Greenfield interviews Edwards - with the crowd at the fence line as a back drop. Other video and still photographers surround them, only leaving an open space for the view of the crowd behind Edwards. A campaign staffer makes sure of that.

Then, somehow the Edwards are gone and another contingent arrives to the photo op (a group of volunteers grilling steak and chicken in a fenced off area).

Hillary has arrived. She eventually makes her way to the fence line. She's mobbed by the crowd at the fence line on one side, and the media still photographers and video cameras on the other. I lean over the fence into the crowd with my camera to try and get a better angle. A young women on the line lets loose with a loud wolf whistle three inches from my ear. There's going to be permanent hearing loss. The crowd is large, noisy and boisterous.

At one point Hillary made her way back to the fence line to greet a man in a wheel chair and his attendant. Two young women, oblivious to those around them, push to the fence to get closer to Hillary, pushing the attendant into her charge. The attendant loudly says, "Excuse me." She repeats herself. The two young women don't seem to notice.

The mob scenes around Edwards and Hillary make me thankful for the fences.

Because of the photo op I missed the grand entrance of Obama and his supporters on to the grounds through the main entrance [they made their way from the off site rally].

I made my way back to the public grounds. I see Joe Biden. There are three people around him. I take a few photos.

I spot a swirling crowd. It's Obama - he's surrounded by a swarm of media and supporters. I join in and and start taking pictures. The mass of humanity makes its way to the photo op area. After Obama walks into the fenced area those of us with press passes follow.

Obama is engaged in a lengthy conversation with a grill volunteer. He listens intently.

Joe Biden makes his way into the photo op area. He and Obama are simultaneously greeting the people in the area. They see each other and shake hands.

I see a couple, Obama supporters by their t-shirts, at the fence. I approach. "Can I ask you a few questions?" "It depends." [Ah, the press pass.] I ask them where they're from. "Amana, Iowa." "Why are you supporting Barack Obama?" "He's a fresh wind. He's brilliant. He doesn't take money from lobbyists. He's raised $20 million five dollars at a time. His speech at the Democratic National Convention. The country needs change. He's working for people." I jot down their comments on a note pad. There's an inquistive look from the woman. I explain that I'm a blogger. "Show Me Progress." She indicates she's going to look it up. They mention they intend to participate in the caucus. I ask, "Have you done this before?" The indicate that this is the first time they'll do so.

I look to the main grounds. The crowd has grown to its full size. I make my way back from the photo op.

The crowd had filled out to its full size of 12,000 (probably minus a few no shows).

I stopped to talk to two women who were sporting Hillary stickers. I asked them where they were from. "Grinell, Iowa." I asked who them who they were supporting. "Hillary or Obama. They both have platforms we agree with." One said, "It's a triumph of American politics I'd like to see. Both are smart." I asked if they would be participating in the caucus. Both said they have in the past, and they will this time, too.

Senator Tom Harkin introduced his six guests in the order they were speaking. The crowd response to Brarack Obama, Hillary Clinton, and John Edwards was big and about the same for each. The candidates had contingents of supporters, but most in the crowd applauded all of them.

One of my traveling companions noted that this was probably indicative of the current state of the race in Iowa.

I noticed more than a few people with stickers of most, if not all, of the candidates plastered on their shirts.

A singer performed the national anthem with pre-recorded accompaniment. Her rendition was heartfelt and definitely unique. Most people would have had difficulty singing along with her. I noticed that all of the candidates except Obama held their hands over their hearts. Obama held his hands folded in front of him throughout [This is not criticism - the "hand over the heart" looked akward on the stage - I was standing in the same fashion as Obama].

As the speechifying started I realized I wasn't going to be able to talk to people in the crowd. They were paying attention to whoever was speaking on the stage. I later made the mistake of trying to talk to some Edwards supporters after he had finished speaking. A woman dismissed me with [rightly so], "I'm trying to listen to this speaker..."

The candiates spoke in an order determined at random. First up was Barack Obama:

...Some of the reason you're all out here. You're sick and tired of George Bush...

Barack Obama supporters started trickling to the exits after he spoke.

A man noticed me and my press pass. He came up to me and said, "Have you ever noticed when people run for office they sound like a dictator? They'll say they'll do this, but don't mention there's a Congress they'll have to work with or anything." I listened politely. He walked away.

Bill Richardson:

...Al Gore has been right, we all just hope he doesn't get in the race...

...with Bill Richardson you get change and experience...

Hillary Clinton was introduced and a good portion of the crowd got on its feet:

...building a new field of dreams for the country we love, and we're going to take it back...

If you're ready for change, I'm ready to lead...

...[referring to the Bush administration] The era of cowboy diplomacy is over...

...[referring to cabinet appointments] let's appoint qualified people to do the job in America again...

...[a 90 year old woman] said, 'I was born before a woman could vote and now I'm going to see a woman in the White House'...

A number of Hillary Clinton supporters exited the grounds after she spoke.

Chris Dodd:

...doing something greater than ourselves...

...All 12,000 of you are invited to spend Inaugural night at the White House [Harkin supposedly quipped, "We'll all be there."]

John Edwards:

..When we walk away from the poor and defenseless our party loses its identity...

...We need more than the rhetoric of change...

...[the system] is broken. It does not work for ordinary Americans. When you give [corporate interests] a seat at the table, they'll eat all the food...

...I don't want to see us replace corporate republicans with corporate Democrats...

...George Bush has not damaged America's standing in the world, he's destroyed it...

Every [war] funding bill sent to Bush should have a timetable for withdrawal...

Most of the crowd started to stream out.

Joe Biden:

...I've also seen 'Field of Dreams', but if I'm not mistaken this [event] has taken longer than nine innings...

...George Bush has made it abundantly clear that he will not end this war. One of us on this stage will have to end it...

...This war must end...

[He somberly recited the number of  American dead and wounded in Iraq to date]...

Joe Biden's speech was well received by the crowd that remained.

The event was certainly interesting. The press pass made it more so, surreal even.

I never made it to the press filing/blogger building.

I had given my full admission ticket to one of our traveling companions who didn't have a ticket. My press pass got me on to the grounds, but I still never got a chance to plunk down the ten dollars to get something to eat.

Getting out was easier than getting in. By the time we made it to the parking lot most people had already left. It reminded me of the crowd at a sporting event leaving with time still on the clock.

We drove past long lines of people walking back to the cars they had parked further out when they tried avoiding the traffic jam.

We stopped at a local convenience store to gas up the vehicles and headed to I-35 - four and a half hours later we reached home.